The other side of midnight

Anjana Das finds out why there is always so much to do when you are in Cairo. From late night cafes and blockbuster movies, to midnight strolls to the pyramids, it is a city that never sleeps and never lets sleep.

Any one who has ever seen the pyramids up close fails to be charmed by its grandeur. Yet its fate will be decided in July when the results of a global poll to name the new Seven Wonders of the World are announced. The Egyptians are peeved that the Pyramids have to be in the contest.

As I looked up at the dark shadow of the Cheops looming large on my hotel window I wondered about the several millions who visit Egypt every year to catch a glimpse of this last remaining Wonder. The contest seemed pointless to me as well. I later learned the sentiments of the people from a street vendor near the Sphinx, "the pyramids live in the hearts of the people," he had said, thumping his chest.

Dusk was falling by the time we got to the hotel, Le Meridien Pyramids in Giza and the pool lay sparkling in the evening light. Inspite of the winter chill, a couple was swimming in the unheated pool. Close to a million Russian tourists were chartered to the Red Sea resort of Hurghada last year and many of them opt to take the 4-hour drive to Cairo to spend a few nights visiting antiquities and shopping at Cairo's famous bazaar, Khan el Khalili.

Our first supper was laid out on an open veranda overlooking the pool. Warm soup followed by the grilled sea bass with just a hint of oregano flavoured the evening. As night settled in we moved into the covered warmth of the tents in the Nubian Village restaurant. Here we were, a group of writers discussing belly dancer Dina over twirls of smoke from the sheesha. Her bare-belly antics on a Downtown street at the premiere of an Egyptian movie apparently caused so much excitement there was almost a riot. Our topics flitted from less sensational to more academic pursuits as the aroma of the lamb roasting in the pit mingled with the sweet smell of cantaloupe.

From the balcony of our rooms, one could see the faint outlines of the mud houses that made up the village of Nazlet el Simman, only a stone's throw away from the hotel. I had once met an elderly French couple from the village who spent every winter in their terraced villa right across the pyramids. I had followed the mud road through the village, dodging camels, donkeys and their riders, past the horse stables, heavy with the smell of fresh dung wondering why on earth anyone would give up the charming countryside life in Lyon for such chaos.

This is where Jean Marie has lived for more than 15 years now and this is where he calls home. His pride evident when he narrates the story of how he made an offer to the Egyptian owner, to build a two floored villa in return for permission to stay on the upper floor for as long as he wanted. Up the stairs we come to an open courtyard from where one gets an uninterrupted view of the pyramids and whose walls are covered with colourful pots of cacti. This is where Marie entertains his guest with incredible stories from the past. In summer the dried vine clinging to the wooden beams bears sweet grapes, he tells us, from which his wife makes home made wine.

The village elders have not only given him the honorary title of 'flower of the desert' but he is also called upon for advice on matters of importance concerning the community. Marie recalls at one time negotiating with the tourist police for the return of the neighbour's two children who had wandered into the pyramids at midnight (back in the 70's there was no wall separating the Pyramids area from the village). In the end, it was settled quite amicably with the authorities' promise of an escorted tour of the pyramids area for the Marie family, anytime should they desire a night time visit !

Anyone who has lived in Cairo long enough will know it is a city with incredible momentum and drama. The day begins by late afternoon, eateries start serving main courses by midnight and streets are packed with shoppers till wee hours, when the rest of the world is deep in slumber. Why I know of appointments with coiffeurs, beauty salons and even dentists running to 2.00 am.

Even doing nothing is an entertainment in Cairo. A number of 24-hour café's like the Cilantro's, Joffrey's and Costa Café has opened over the past year, along the Nile and in chic areas of Zamalek, Mohandeseen and Dokki. With societal restriction on alcohol consumption, café's are becoming more popular especially among trendy AUCians - students from American University in Cairo - most of who come from wealthy Egyptian society. They can be seen sharing bytes (and bites) over trendy laptops in the dim light of the café interior.

Another favourite past time for Egyptians is the cinemas. Egyptian films have always been popular in the region but the 'Yacoubian building' surprised even critics with its realistic, somewhat blatant portrayal of life in contemporary Egypt. While foreign films are a bit slow to make their debut in Egypt, that is about to change. Latest Indian blockbuster 'Eklavya' with veteran star Amitabh Bachchan was premiered at the Grand Hyatt Cinema and going by the claps and cheers, was a hit among the audience, promising the launch of Bollywood movies in Egypt once again !

The trend, towards weekend shifts to watering holes like the Cairo Jazz Club and After Eight frequented by foreigners and regulars for their live music. The live music band at the Jazz Club plays different styles of music on different days, from Rai to Rock & Roll. Wednesdays are popular and without prior reservations entry is not guaranteed especially if you turn up without a female partner. Wander in at 9 pm and you will find the place deserted.

On special occasions like Valentine's night the city's premiere night spots including the Le Pacha boat on the Nile (model Naomi Campbell was recently spotted having dinner there) flies in DJ's from Paris and Dubai. Another interesting place is 'The Place' on the Nile where on Tuesdays, you can join a small group of beginners to swing your hips or learn the cha-cha. Ever since the Salsa became such a hit 4 years ago, Cairo has attracted a growing number of Columbian and Cuban dancers, male and female to teach their manoeuvres to the unskilled among us.

I too once signed up for merengue classes at the Nile Hilton's Jazz Up bar and got a dental student from Cairo University as my dance instructor. Needless to say, I had to drop out after the steps got trickier and I was warned off for trying to teach an elderly fellow dancer my own improvisation of the Latin wave.

One last thing remained to be done, before we left. It was a cruise down the Nile on a felucca or sail boat. We were curious to see how different it would be from the Dhow cruises that plied the Dubai creek. Sailing down towards Maadi we encountered rural scenes just as they appeared in 3,000 year old tomb paintings - small row boats idling in the fading light, father teaching son the elements of fishing and peasant women bent over by the riverside, washing vessels in the Nile water. Fishing is not only a favourite past time, it is also a source of livelihood for many Egyptians.

As we made our way back to the airport that late night I saw one welcome addition, the new yellow cabs. With meters and prices fixed, there would be no more haggling and no more having to ride in a 60's Fiat that threatens to fall apart if you let go of the door.

Stay tuned for more on Egypt.

By Anjana Das